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Mar 10, 2023

Gucci High Jewelry Allegoria Collection Inspired by Four Seasons

MILAN — The natural changing colors of the four seasons inform Gucci’s new

MILAN — The natural changing colors of the four seasons inform Gucci's new high jewelry collection, which is called Allegoria.

This is the brand's fourth high jewelry collection and Gucci is celebrating it by unveiling it Wednesday at Palazzo Settimanni, the brand's historical archive in Florence.

"This is where our story began, when Guccio Gucci started making artisanal hand-crafted leather goods in 1921. This refined approach to creativity resonates with the art of high jewelry making, and presenting in Florence is a tribute to the rich history and birthplace of the house," explained Gucci president and chief executive officer Marco Bizzarri of choosing the location.

Since the debut in the category in 2019, Gucci has "leveraged the essence of the brand to create distinctive collections crafted by our skilled artisans" and "built relationships based on trust with our clients," Bizzarri observed.

The executive acknowledged the brand is relatively new to the high jewelry segment, but underscored that Gucci clients "know we are offering them something unique, inspired by the passion, creativity and emotion of the house. This is what differentiates us from any other player in the industry."

To further develop the category, "it starts with creativity. This is ultimately what clients are looking for, along with the utmost quality in craft, exceptional stones and desirability," continued Bizzarri.

Gucci relies on an atelier of around 40 people and production is split between Milan and Valenza Po, a major goldsmith hub in Italy, with an exclusive partner.

Bizzarri said Gucci has important customers of high jewelry in every market, but he underscored that "it is not about where they are based, it is more about how we are able to emotionally connect with them, whoever they are, wherever they come from. Our approach transcends borders as we aim to establish one-on-one relationships with each individual client offering them unique and personalized experiences."

In Florence, for example, Gucci is planning a series of additional moments for its clients, in addition to opening up the five-story archives, taking them to the brand's state-of-the-art leather goods and shoe industrial complex ArtLab in Scandicci, or offering a preview of the new exhibition at Gucci Garden.

The Allegoria collection opens a new cycle, after the first three collections under the "Hortus Deliciarum," or "Garden of Delights," moniker conceived by creative director Alessandro Michele, who exited the brand in November.

The gems, more than 200, are increasingly central, and color is key to the collection.

The light-hearted spirit of spring is telegraphed by the blooming pattern of Gucci's signature Flora motif. A stunning cushion-cut 226-carat green tourmaline rests in carefully crafted openwork metal, punctuated by star motifs and diamond baguettes. Multicolored tourmalines and diamonds stand on the necklace's chain.

A necklace with a 161-carat cushion-cut pink tourmaline is encircled by multiple levels of diamonds and colored enamel, all set on a chain sparkling with 72 88-carat tourmalines, which create a chromatic degradé.

More saturated hues reflect the warmth of summer through emeralds, spinels and Paraiba tourmalines, sprinkled with multifaceted diamonds. Sophisticated constructions, daring cuts, such as the fan cut, point to Gucci's craftsmanship.

Muted and soft tones are representative of fall in silky stones such as yellow sapphire, pink tourmaline and mandarin garnet. A 78-carat yellow sapphire necklace is surrounded by an array of tourmalines and diamonds, while a vintage-style yellow gold bracelet is set with five mandarin garnets cut into three different shapes.

Embracing a more wintry mood, an enamel and diamond necklace stands out, defined by a milky, iridescent 92-carat opal.

Gucci is unveiling one-of-a-kind European-cut antique diamonds and stones that add a touch of vintage to the collection. Created primarily from 1890 to 1930, European cuts characterized the Art Deco period.

Fan, briolette, paisley and kite shapes all feature, as speckles of baguette diamonds add an additional touch of light.

A pair of jacket earrings are designed around two fan-shaped emeralds totaling 18 carats, cascading with a mesh of diamonds and tourmalines.

There are also new hair accessories and detachable pieces that can be worn in different ways.

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